The Tale Behind Timmy’s Pink “Scarf”
Timmy’s tiny pink scarf that he wore to the Paris premiere of the Bob Dylan biopic, “A Complete Unknown”, made headlines recently as it was covered from Vogue to TMZ. Against the backdrop of his designer clothing another complete unknown emerges - BIBI STAR & the Waga Belt. What is now referred to as a skinny scarf ushering in a new Y2K trend has a much deeper story than what the tabloids have painted. It tells a colorful tale of nomadic women, Pashtun culture, and a dream for a brighter post-war future.
Timothée’s outfit, put together by stylist Taylor McNeill who purchased them through Big Ash NYC, hints at an era where Afghan fashion was making ripples through the scene of rock & roll and hippie culture. Bob Dylan, along with the likes of Jimi Hendrix and The Beatles, adorned themselves in our rich tapestry of fur embroidered coats and embellished accessories from Afghanistan. Quickly these designs left the sphere of my country and became lost in the swarm of appropriation. The woven waga belt may fall into another category of consumption, but not as long as I’m alive to tell its story.
Traditionally, the waga belt is worn hidden in the waistband of men’s pants to adjust its sizing. The really colorful ones are reserved for weddings and celebrations, despite the fact that the tassels hardly peek through their long kamis tops that hang to the knees. This touch of adornment pops against the modest clothing of Pashtun men, and ties into the rich ornamental clothing of Pashtun women that hide behind our blue burqas. It is very hard to find a reference of these online, despite the fact that they have been around for generations. The only picture I could find of these is shown below, worn by a suicide bomber in Kandahar, the picture represents a slice of the struggles our people have been facing.
Growing up my mom had a traditional green waga belt that she wrapped around her Quran. She’s carried this single piece with her across dozens of continents, countries, states, and homes over the course of 30 years, as it is one of the few mementos she has of her father who was bombed when she was 9. I have been fascinated by this piece since I was a child, mesmerized by the metallic glass beads, the texture of the yarn, and the shimmering gold threads.
My grandfather was known to be a very successful and earnest business man in Kandahar who imported and exported goods to the city and supported countless people through this endeavor before his abrupt death. The stories of my grandfather always moved me to continue with this kind of work. I recognized the way our culture was ripped away from many Afghans during the war, along with the ability to represent ourselves through our historic craftsmanship.
In the fall of 2023, I quit my job to go see my family in Afghanistan again after almost 15 years. Needless to say it was a very emotional and important trip for me. I went to the heart of Taliban ruled Afghanistan with a plan to change things - to bring back the legacy of my grandfather, to create economic opportunities for women in Afghanistan, to bring representation of my culture and agency back to my people, and to never be apart from my family for that long ever again. They were very big goals, and they became increasingly uncertain as the time passed. Still, I clung to the dreams and shared them with no matter who would listen.
The green waga that I grew up fascinated by was the first piece I wanted to bring back with me from Afghanistan. When I arrived at my aunt’s home they brought me 2 bags full of technicolor belts that were woven by Kochani women. The Kochis are Pashtun pastoral nomads that migrate from Central & Southern Afghanistan. These tribes mainly tend sheep, goats, and livestock, and exchange or sell the produce from these animals as sustenance. Through their methods of trade they have developed a historical & extensive network of exchange along their annual routes, stretching from the mountains of Afghanistan & out to the Indus Valley. These incredibly generous peoples are one of the last nomadic populations in the region, and their existence is an act of resistance in an age where indigenous peoples are met with cruelty.
Thanks to these resilient, talented, generous, and spirited people we were able to introduce a new product to the market. Their handiwork is shown in our waga belts and Kochi chest pieces, which were meticulously crafted in the comfort of their tents. My grandmother was able to bring this unique project to them directly and they were excited about the opportunity to earn some money. This continues the tradition of the Kochi people and the trade they have relied on for sustenance. My family was curious as to what I would use these pieces for in America. As I imagined infinite possibilities, for them, these timeless pieces had always held the same function. Even now they find it funny that I wanted to bring waga belts to America.
Now getting the waga back to the states was a story in itself. We flew to and from Quetta, Pakistan, making our journey through the massive barbed wire border that Pakistan built over the past few years to cement a disputed line between the countries. I sat in a wheelbarrow among the luggage, as my uncle and brother were harassed for money at each and every checkpoint. Getting back to the Quetta airport was even more treacherous. We were detained alongside many other Afghans who couldn’t afford the corrupt guards or their prejudice. Some of whom had been waiting for weeks to pass through. The nomadic Kochani people were there as well, unable to cross through their ancestral migration paths. In fact, the radical territorialization imposed by modern nationalist borders have disproportionately affected the Kochani peoples survival. Seeing this first hand was disheartening to say the least, but it opened my eyes to the contemporary issues of indigenous people around the world.
After a few hours of waiting, the Pakistani guards kicked everyone out of the last checkpoint. We couldn’t leave however, because by that point they took our US passports holding us hostage, aiming to extort us for American dollars. In their minds they hit the jackpot. But as soon as the Taliban saw herds of Afghans leaving the border crossing they began to fire at the Pakistani guards. Miraculously, this moved the men detaining us to give us back our passports and rush us out of the final checkpoint. As we ran to the exit they closed the border behind us, and there it remained shut for weeks. The next month, Pakistan mass deported nearly a million Afghans who had to travel through that same crossing. The congestion of Spin-Boldak was unimaginable after that.
I escaped that crisis carrying back with me, among many other beautiful creations, bags filled with beautiful waga belts, including the infamous skinny pink scarf seen across the world. Never once did I imagine that it would end up adorning a global superstar on a Paris red carpet. Around the neck of Timothée Chalamet hangs the hands of countless Afghan women and the history of my people. It’s crazy to think that what was once strewn up in a tent somewhere in the middle of Kandahar could make it so far and be seen by so many. It goes to show how connected the world can really be. Thank you Timmy for taking a chance on a complete unknown - it means more to us than you could ever realize.
